Saturday, 27 December 2008

2008 the best bits free Ebook


2008 saw lots of rain but thankfully we also had a few dry days. just long enough to get some decent racing and a few semi decent photos done. Hit the jump to see the best bits
You can download your copy of my free eBook by following this link. It is a PDF file and upon completion of the download process will launch in Adobe Acrobat and prompt a dialogue box asking permission to display the file in "full screen" mode. This will allow you to view each page at your own pace and enjoy the images in a full view on your computer screen.

Please note, you cannont edit, copy or print this file. It is simply a portable presentation for your personal enjoyment.

CLICK to download the free Ebook(5.2 meg, it will take amoment to download)

Thanks for looking and I hope you enjoy.
Feedback is always welcome just leave comments bellow

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Tuesday, 18 November 2008

the art of the pan


One basic shot rests at the very core of motorsports photography and thats the pan, a very basic shot thats pretty tricky to do well repeatdly hit the link to lean the best way to pan.
The basic principle of the pan is that you frame the car up as it travels towards you, you click as it becomes parallel to you you then keep it in the same framing as it travels away from you. Sounds simple and once you understand it, it is.
However there are multiple factors that can have an effect in how sharp your pan is. 
  • Smooth Motion - this is making sure that the horizontal path the camera takes is the same as the one the object (car takes) the more undulations that one of the other path has that isnt replicated in the other will result in a softer image.
  • Parallax shift - Whoa count those A's basicly with out getting into a physic degree this is the amount of variation between back out side corner moving and the front inside corner. because the outside corner has further to travel in relation to the camera it has to move faster resulting in only part of the car being sharp.  (with me so far?) The rate of parallax decreases the closer to the parallel the two objects become. 
  • Bad Motion Blur- this is where the movement of the camera  is slower or faster than thatof the object meaning that the object is burled laterally.
The great thing is that when you know what your doing these problems are a snap to fix. HEres how.
Improving your Smooth Motion
To improve the fluidness of your pan the best thing you can do is wedge the camera into your body (having a SLR or large compact really helps at this point) grip the lense in your left hand 
with your arm pointing down so your elbow is bent 180 degrees and is facing the floor. Now Pull your arm into your body press the camera into your face, not so hard that your disfigure your nose but hard enough so that it dosent wobble around. With your right hand (trigger hand) you want to keep the angle as parallel to the floor as you can (see diagram). As you pan make sure that you twist from the hips to ensure you pan at a constant hight. 



Reducing parallax shift 
This is a simple fix, always ensure that you press the trigger as the object becomes parallel to you minimizing the effect.  Also ensure that your shutter speed isn't too slow (small number i.e 1/20) otherwise you will find that the car will pass the "sweet spot" and start to move off the parallel inducing the dreadded parallax shift.  
Notice how the front and rear of the bike are not sharp but the middle is, this is caused by the shift in parallax .

Reducing incorrect Motion Blur
Motion blur is the intended out come of this exercise how ever we don't want it on the focus of the frame only the background. To insure that the object stays sharp and the background stays blury follow these simple steps.
  1. As soon as the car becomes visible start tracking its movement 
  2. Continue to track its movement even after you have taken the photo
  3. Make sure that your shutter speed isn't too slow, each person has their own limit experiment to find yours as you become more used to following the movement and adjusting to the changing rate of execration you will find you will be able to drop to slower speeds. As a starting point for a Top Fuel dragster somewhere in the relm of 1/800 should give you a nice basis to work from. 
How to set your camera up.
The best way to set your camera up for this sort of work is to select shutter priority mode. This is where you tell the camera what shutter speed you want in fractions of a second e.g 1/250 means the shutter will be open for 250th of a second. the camera then works out what the rest of the settings should be to ensure a correct exposure. 
Once you become more familiar with the workings of your camera you can also use manual mode which will allow you so control all aspects of the camera and thus gives you more controll over how the finished image will look.

Practice is the key to constancy.

Hope thats of some help. Let me know how you get on and as always feedback is always welcome.

Technically a great pan, aesthetically its naff but skill wise this is what is possible with a little practice(click to see the full image) 

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Monday, 13 October 2008

HandBall!

Up untill about two weeks ago I like many had never herd of the sport handball however this past weekend has been a baptisim of fire into the sport with the oppertunity to shoot a couple of matches from the 4 nations event at Eis Sheffield Hit the link for more.

The venue EIS at sheffield is a stunning multi-sports facility that has the equipment and skills to support most sports the handball was to be situated in the basketball hall, having shot here earlier in the month I knew that the light was strong enough to support a fairly fast shutter, 1/640 f2.8 with 1600 iso this was just about fast enough for the basketball how ever handball is another ball game all together! I endded up having a working set up of 1/1000 f2.8 at 1600 iso (2/3s of a stop under) not ideal but still manageable with a little post work.

Friday









Saturday

Saturday saw me take a different approach and work solely with the 300mm











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Monday, 29 September 2008

adding paypal to flash


A quick tip that i struggled with while building the calendar pages of the website. When you want to put a paypal link in flash dont bother with trying to code it all over, just use the email link that paypal genarates then put that into 
on (release) {
getURL("PAYPAL LINK HERE","_blank");
}
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Hot Rod 09


Christmas is nearly upon us and so is the new year. Ive just released the new calerndar hit the jump for more info
So the season has pretty much finished now so it was time to wade threw the masses of photos (most of them crap) and find the best to put into a calendar. Well Im pleased to say that its done and it can be seen here. Let me know what you think
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Tuesday, 19 August 2008

How to Do a Timelapse

The age old art of showing time passing with a series of interval shots stitched together to form a section of footage. Sounds fairly complicated but with the right know how and a bit of patients its a easy skill to master. Hit the jump to read more
Ok before we get started there are a few things your gunna need.

1. A dslr
2. A timelapse trigger (some cameras have one built in) canon do the tc 80n3 that works great (its what i use) other after market versions are available.
3.A tripod
4.Photolapse CLICK (or other image sequence stitching program)

Ok first things first set up the camera on the tripod and frame the shot you want.

Next plug in and set up the trigger (how to set it up will vary from model to model) and select a suitable delay. For most things such as sun sets where it is moving quite quickly (all over in the space of a hour or so) Ill set the trigger to take one frame every 5 seconds for a flower something like once every 30 minutes .

Ok now to set the camera up first things first set the camera to Manual set a suitable exposure set up.
quick tip: if your photographic quickly moving objects (cars people ect) it is advisable to use a long shutter speed to get some motion blur to make it look more realistic

Then select a suitable focus point this is totaly dependent on the scene use your photographers initiative. At the point once the camera is in focus turn the lens to Manual focus.

ok the final step set a custom WB setting for the current conditions.

then hit the start button sit back and wait

Once all your images are shot load them into there own folder on your pc
open up photolapse
Find the folder in the left hand finder window
Click load files from current folder
Click Mark all
Decide on a frame rate (depends on your delay between photos but I normal start at about 12 and then play from there)
Click Create Movie and wait
Sit back and admire your creation !

For some insparation for timelapse hit up youtube



Have fun!!!!
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Friday, 1 August 2008

Nikon D3 hardware update


Nikon release the D3n well not quite but almost more after the jump!
Press Release
Nikon is today pleased to announce a buffer memory expansion service for the D3 that will expand shooting performance. As a result of listening to customer feedback we can now offer an increased number of frames within a single burst of continuous shooting - particularly useful for sports photographers shooting the NEF file format.

More information about the new upgrade can be found here. Customers should contact their local Nikon authorised service department or NPS for details about cost and timing.


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